A dramatic and tragic episode has unfolded on the icy slopes of Victory Peak (Jengish Chokusu), the highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan, where 47-year-old Russian climber Natalia Nagovitsina has been stranded at 6,700 metres for over ten days after breaking her leg.
Victory Peak, standing at 7,439 metres in the Tian Shan mountain range near the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, is known for its extreme conditions, including temperatures plummeting to -23°C. Despite the perilous environment, fellow climber Luca Sinigaglia, 49, from Italy, mounted a heroic solo effort to reach Natalia. He succeeded in delivering essential survival supplies — including a sleeping bag, tent, food, water and a gas stove — to her high-altitude location.
Drone footage taken three days ago confirmed that Natalia was still alive and moving, suggesting Luca’s intervention had extended her chances of survival. However, tragedy soon followed. Luca succumbed to hypothermia and exhaustion during his descent. His body was later discovered in an ice cave. His sister described his actions as the ultimate act of bravery, stating that he would never have left someone behind.
Multiple rescue attempts were subsequently launched but all failed. A Mi-8 helicopter from the Kyrgyz Ministry of Defence crashed during an operation, and another aircraft was forced to turn back due to harsh weather. A ground team led by experienced alpinist Vitaly Akimov also had to abandon their mission after Akimov suffered severe back pain, likely linked to the helicopter crash.
With worsening conditions and over ten days having passed since Natalia’s injury, rescue operations were officially called off. Dmitry Grekov, head of the base camp and rescue operations, stated that survival at such an altitude for this long is no longer considered realistic.
The Russian Mountaineering Federation had earlier described any successful rescue as miraculous, noting that at least 30 climbers would be required to traverse a treacherous three-kilometre ridge under brutal conditions.
Natalia remains on the mountain, which was named in honour of triumph but has now become the backdrop for one of mountaineering’s most sorrowful and courageous sagas.
